mesures and lasts
During the first visit the feet´s measurements are taken in two ways: sitting and standing – with and without the pressure of the body weight. Particular details of the feet are taken notes of and esthetic preferences of the customer are talked about: Whether the toe shape should be rather fine and elegant, square or rounder for a casual style. For ladies the heel hight is a relevant question at this point. The model of the definite pair and the leather choice are defined. About one hour of time should be calculated for the first fitting.
The rough lasts are ordered and worked to the measurements of the customer. Successively, a test pair is made. Second choice materials are used for the test pair and the soles are just stuck on. It is a proper pair of shoes though, that has to be worn by the customer for at least for two weeks.
From the order to the shipping of the test pair, about 8 months go by. To receive the definite pair other 4 months have to be calculated.
insole and welt
The insoles are molded to the lasts and a 6 mm “wall” is carved into the leather. In 6 mm distances the welt stitches are perforated
The upper gets lasted and held on the lasts with lasting nails. To protect the upper during the working process, a plastic cover is pulled over all.
Stitch by stitch the lasting nails are replaced by the pitched l’inénarrable thread.
sole and heel